Pestec Lawn Services for St Augustine Grass
MOWING ST. AUGUSTINE GRASS
Proper mowing practices are necessary to keep any lawn healthy and attractive. Standard St. Augustine grass should be maintained at a height of 3.5–4 inches. Repeatedly mowing at lower heights increases the stress on the lawn, discourages deep rooting, increases the chance for scalping if a mowing event is missed or postponed due to weather, and may increase susceptibility to pest problems.
Maintaining the right height helps the grass develop a deep root system and gives a better appearance to the turf. No more than 1/3 of the leaf blades should be removed with any mowing. If possible, mowing height should be increased during periods of moisture stress or if the grass is growing in shade. Dwarf varieties have a lower growth habit and should be mowed at 2–2.5 inches for optimum health. Mowing too infrequently or too high and over-watering and over-fertilizing can cause a thatch buildup.
A rotary mower can be used on St. Augustine grass. It is important to keep the blades sharp and well adjusted for a clean cut. Dull blades give the lawn a brownish cast because a ragged cut shreds the leaf blades rather than cuts them. During the growing season, blades should be sharpened monthly. St. Augustine grass typically requires weekly mowing during the growing season and less frequent mowing during the cooler months of the year. In north Florida, mowing may not be required during winter months.
Grass clippings should be left on a lawn that is mowed at the proper height and frequency. Under these conditions, clippings do not contribute to the thatch layer. Clippings put nutrients and organic matter back into the soil system. If clippings are excessive (e.g., clumping occurs), let them dry out and then disperse them over the lawn.
WATERING ST. AUGUSTINE GRASS
Irrigating on an “as-needed” basis is the best way to maintain any established, mature grass, as long as the proper amount of water is applied when needed. Irrigation is needed when leaf blades begin to fold up, wilt, or turn a blue-gray color, or when footprints remain visible after walking on the grass Apply ½–¾ inch of water per application. This applies water to roughly the top 8 inches of soil where the majority of the roots are. Be sure to follow any local watering restrictions.
Proper watering practices help maintain a healthy lawn that has fewer stress and insect problems. If large patch or gray leaf spot diseases are a continuous problem, excessive watering and nitrogen fertilization may be responsible. Certain weeds, such as dollarweed and sedges, also thrive in soils that are continuously wet.
ST. AUGUSTINE GRASS PROBLEMS
Large patch and gray leaf spot are two major disease problems of St. Augustine grass. Large patch occurs in warm, humid weather and is encouraged by excessive nitrogen. It is generally most noticeable during the spring and fall months. Gray leaf spot occurs during the summer rainy season and is primarily a problem on new growth. Both diseases can be controlled with fungicides.
Other St. Augustine grass disease problems originate in the root system. Take-all root rot occurs under high moisture or stress conditions. When symptoms are noticeable above ground, the disease is usually in an advanced stage. Hiring 4pestec.com for all your lawn services is the best defense against this disease.
MORE ST. AUGUSTINE GRASS PROBLEMS
Other factors can also decrease the quality of a lawn. Excessive shade, compacted soils, over- or under watering, improper mowing, traffic, and high or low pH can all cause a lawn to perform poorly. It is important to recognize what the source of the problem is and to correct it if possible.
Thatch Removal- Thatch is the layer of undecomposed, stolons, roots, and crowns intermingled with soil. Leaving clippings on the lawn does not cause thatch because clippings are readily broken down by microbes in the soil. Thatch development is greatest in grass that is over fertilized or over watered. An excessive thatch layer reduces water penetration and can bind up fertilizer or pesticides. In severe cases, roots may be seen actually growing above ground and rooting into the thatch layer. This is a very unhealthy condition and leaves the lawn vulnerable to many stresses.
ST. AUGUSTINE GRASS CHINCH BUGS
The major insect pest of St. Augustine grass is the southern chinch bug. Chinch bugs are foliar-feeding insects that suck plant juices through a needlelike beak, causing yellowish to brownish patches in turf. Injured areas are usually first noticed as the weather begins to warm in areas along sidewalks, adjacent to buildings, and in other water-stressed areas where the grass is in full sun
Check for chinch bugs by removing the ends of a coffee can, inserting one end into the soil at the margin of suspected damaged areas, and filling it with water. Chinch bugs will float to the water surface within 5 minutes. In areas where chinch bugs are a serious problem, a single, thorough insecticide treatment may offer only temporary control. Therefore, repeat applications may be required. Some populations of this insect have become resistant to synthetic pyrethroid insecticides.
OTHER ST. AUGUSTINE BUG PROBLEMS
Other insect pests, including web worms, army worms, grass loopers, and mole crickets can damage St. Augustine grass. Mole crickets damage turf grass areas primarily by creating tunnels or soft mounds while searching for food. Additional damage may result from small animals digging through the soil profile in search of the mole crickets as food. Check for mole crickets by examining an area for tunnels or by applying 2 gallons of water mixed with 1½ ounces of liquid detergent soap per 2 square feet in suspected damaged areas. Mole crickets will surface in several minutes.
White grubs are another pest of St. Augustine grass. These can be found by lifting the grass to a depth of about 2 inches. Grubs can be seen feeding on the roots at this level